Just a stone’s throw from Italy’s capital, but still far off the map for the average tourist, the region of Abruzzo is kind of like the guy the girl ends up with at the end of a rom com—been there all along, right under her nose with everything she ever wanted. And Abruzzo really does have it all. The coastal region is framed by soaring Apennine peaks to the west and gentle Adriatic waves to the east. While its red wine made from Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grapes has justly won the hearts of wine lovers everywhere, there are plenty more styles and spirits to explore.
Contesa Cerasuolo at Essenza Cucina di Mare
The winemaker Contesa’s Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is a light-bodied red made from the same Montepulciano d’Abruzzo everyone already knows and loves. With the sweet acidic intensity of a rosé and the structure of a red, it tastes like cherries and sunshine trapped in a glass. Cerasuolo is poised to become the next big thing—and it’s delightfully crushable. But inexplicably, this gorgeous, deep rose-colored expression of the local grape has often been overlooked. Thankfully, you can enjoy a glass of it at Essenza Cucina di Mare, a restaurant on the Costa dei Trabocchi (a magnificent stretch of Abruzzese coastline dotted with preindustrial fishing piers) where the De Sanctis family will spoil you with their hospitality.
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Valle Martello Cococciola at Ristorante il Saraceno
On a peninsula where well over 300 grapes are vinified and brought to market it’s still common to find a true beauty that hasn’t yet been appreciated. One of them is Cococciola, an indigenous white varietal that has so few admirers that even in Abruzzo it’s tough to find someone who has heard of it. It actually might have disappeared if not for the hard work of producers like Katia Masci at Valle Martello, in the Colle Teatine region. Floral and tropical-fruit forward, fun but not frivolous, Cococciola is worth seeking out not just because it’s rare but, more importantly, because it’s delicious. Pair it with the local crudi at the consistently excellent Ristorante il Saraceno, tucked right into the middle of the minuscule Villamagna DOC.
Piana Marina at Fermenta Pizzeria
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo is the girl with oversized glasses and a bad haircut who turns out to be a stunner when she finally lets her best friend give her a makeover. Long relegated to sidekick position, with a few exceptions, Abruzzo’s native Trebbiano is in fact a main character—a rich, full savory white grape that can’t be expected to blend in. Luckily plenty of producers have taken notice by now. Drinking Torre Zambra’s strikingly salty but luxe and round Piana Marina could cure most ills. Pair it with a pie at Fermenta Pizzeria to really see it shine. This Chieti restaurant features a dizzying variety of cooking techniques and spectacularly inventive, quality ingredients. The combinations are unexpected and the pizza with slow-cooked lamb, Fara Filiorium Petri onions and Avezzano potatoes is a total knock-out.
Genziana at Ceramiche Liberati
Italian digestifs tend to be a place where even adventurous drinkers get cold feet. Genziana, an ultra bitter after-dinner drink made with gentian root, isn’t here to make friends or meet you halfway. It does, however, promise to be there in sickness and in health (it’s one of the best natural digestives on the planet) and to help you burn a heavy meal. It has an herbaceous, mountain-fresh flavor and plenty of alcohol. Any Abruzzese bar or restaurant worth its salt will have a version, but to find the exhilarating, palate-shredding gentian locals love, your best bet is a homemade version. At Ceramiche Liberati you can find handcrafted vessels that are perfect for digestifs. (If you’re lucky, owner Giuseppe Liberati might be around to offer you a sip of his private stock.)
Ratafià at Don Gennaro 1918
While Genziana’s bitter root-base delivers a tough love, its more palatable cousin Ratafià offers a warm embrace, joyous and without judgment. The sweet, just slightly medicinal cherry digestif is made from Montepulciano d’Abruzzo red wine and recalls the notes of Cerasuolo. Lauded producer Praesidium makes a particularly sophisticated Ratafià, while the tiny production of artisanal spirits from Scuppoz executes tradition with an edge that has gained a cult following. Don Gennaro 1918—a magnificent wine bar with an impressive selection of local and international bottles—offers a variety of this beloved classic. Let the bartenders guide you and you can’t go wrong.
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Published: April 16, 2024
