Wine Enthusiast

At Wine Enthusiast’s Sip of South America, an Energized Crowd Signals a Bright Future

Wine Enthusiast — Wed, 08 May 2024 21:03:59 +0000

On Monday, May 6, a broad contingent of wine industry professionals and consumers gathered at Wine Enthusiast’s second annual Sip of South America, a curated tasting experience featuring nearly 40 different wineries from across Argentina, Chile and Uruguay. The event, held at City Winery in New York City, highlighted nearly 150 wines—all rated 90 points and up—that represent the impressive and varied terroirs of South America. It also painted a rosy picture for the future of wine from the continent, which is producing an unprecedented selection of interesting, complex bottlings that have industry insiders excited.

The event’s trade portion, which packed in roughly 125 attendees, kicked off with a panel discussion on the current state of South American wine in the U.S. market. Led by Wine Enthusiast Tasting Director Anna-Christina Cabrales and Writer-at-Large and South American Wine Reviewer Jesica Vargas, the discussion included insights from a trio of experts who know the South American wine market intimately: 67 Wine Wine Buyer Oscar Garcia Moncada; Stacey Sosa, owner of Argentinian restaurant Estancia 460 in New York City’s Tribeca neighborhood; and Gary’s Wine & Marketplace Wine Director Gillian Sciaretta.

“The panel was a lot of fun,” said Cabrales after the event. “I think that a lot of people were expecting the same old questions—perhaps they didn’t think that anything could excite them about South America. But we surprised them with three panelists who love and embrace everything that is coming out of the region that is innovative.”

The group discussed the bottlings that energize them the most, including white Malbecs, a departure from the red iterations we’ve come to expect from South America. The premiumization of offerings across the continent, chilled reds and high-end whites were also hot topics. There was talk, too, about sparkling wines that are both elegant and age-worthy—an especially interesting turn, given that last year sparkling exports from Chile increased by 90% in volume and 25% in value, Vargas noted.

“They show that there is such a thing as terroir,” Cabrales said. “These wines are not monotonous in any way… we should be paying attention.”

It seems like consumers are already taking note, at least when options are presented in the right way. “Of recent, what really stood out to me would be Chardonnay coming from the Limarí Valley in northern Chile well north of Santiago,” said Sciaretta during the panel. She noted a strong demand for Chablis and Chablis-style Chardonnays amongst her clientele, especially “ones that have a lot of freshness, a lot of minerality.” The Miguel Torres Cordillera Chardonnay proved to be “one of those wines” at an ideal price point. “For us, it’s under $20,” she said. “When we did a strong promotion of it—we alerted all of our Chablis lovers and unoaked Chardonnay lovers, like, ‘You’ve got to try this, it’s fantastic’—and it was a great success.”

After the conversation wrapped up, trade attendees migrated over to a walkround tasting of the event’s featured wines. They also popped into the Sip Lounge, where Writer-at-Large and spirits reviewer Kara Newman led a cocktail demo featuring the grape brandy pisco. Sponsored by Pisco Chile, the segment served to demonstrate the versatility of the spirit, which Newman illustrated through three drinks: a classic pisco sour; a citrusy cocktail dubbed the Fruit & Fizz; and perhaps most interestingly, the Es-Pisco martini, an unexpected riff on the espresso martini.

“Who knew that you could do a beautiful pisco espresso martini?” Cabrales marveled. “It is absolutely delicious.”

Then came the main ticketed event, which drew more than 200 thirsty attendees eager to drink their way through South America. The vibe was energetic in the sprawling City Winery event space, which offered views of the Hudson River and Little Island, the public park that seems to float on concrete pillars. DJ Flavya Gaeta spun a curated mix of lively traditional music from the countries being celebrated, from cumbia to salsa. As the sun set, it cast a golden hue over the crowd. Wine flowed, naturally.

Cabrales was heartened by the youthful faces in the crowd in both the event’s trade and consumer portions.

“I think there’s a really nice mix [of ages] here,” she said. “But it’s also nice to see the next generation of drinkers here. They want to explore, they want to see what’s coming up. And this selection of wines does just that.”

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One attendee, the host of the Let’s Talk Di Tings podcast, who asked to be identified as Ash, was struck by the inclusivity of the gathering. “I am the person who gets the same wine every night at dinner,” she said, confessing that she was concerned producers might brush her off in favor of the more seasoned drinkers in attendance. Instead, she found them friendly and personable, eager to share details about grape varietals, climate, terroir and price points. “I feel completely at ease talking to everyone,” Ash said. “I’ve been to 10 different vendors, and they explained everything. It makes me want to become a wine enthusiast.”

“Despite the market being very difficult across the board, I think there’s just something about the energy in this event that makes people excited,” Cabrales summed up, wine glass in hand. “Your palate can get fatigued pretty quickly at an event like this, which would normally feature a majority of structured reds. But you see people going from one table to the next, nonstop, wanting to explore. I think that’s a sign of the quality [we’re seeing] in South America.”

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It’s Time to Take A Fresh Look at Lambrusco

Kerin O'Keefe and Wine Enthusiast — Wed, 08 May 2024 20:53:16 +0000

Seeking a dry, crisp and savory wine that pairs with just about any dish on the planet and makes an excellent apéritif? Look for Lambrusco. Yes, Lambrusco.

Once known as the cheap, cheerful and fizzy plonk served with ice cubes, today’s top Lambruscos are a far cry from the industrially made, cloyingly sweet versions that flooded American shelves in the 1970s and ’80s.

The top wines of Lambrusco have such a verve, energy and happiness that you feel better after a few sips,” said Writer-at-Large Jeff Porter, Wine Enthusiast’s resident Italian wine reviewer, back in January. “The continued push towards better farming, drier wines and a revitalization of old-school winemaking techniques are creating wines that show complexity and drinkability in equal proportions.”

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Hailing from the Emilia-Romagna region, Lambrusco is made from its namesake red grape. Or, to be exact, the extended family of varieties grouped under the Lambrusco category.

Once loved and then scorned for its candied sweetness, a number of producers now make distinct, slightly sparkling Lambruscos that belong on every wine lover’s radar. However, buyers beware—the styles vary tremendously and include lightweight, sweet and semi-sweet wines. The best Lambruscos are dry, crisp and delicious. Most are also extremely well-priced. To help you navigate through the ever-evolving category, we’ve put together a guide to the top styles and bottles worth seeking out.

A bottle of Paltrinieri 2016 Radice (Lambrusco di Sorbara) and Cavicchioli 2016 Vigna del Cristo (Lambrusco di Sorbara) / Photo by Meg Baggott

Lambrusco di Sorbara

Lightly colored, fragrant and boasting vibrant acidity, Lambrusco di Sorbara, made from the grape of the same name, is the most refined wine of the Lambrusco category. Made around the village of Sorbara north of Modena, the variety excels in the sandy, fertile plains between the Secchia and Panaro rivers.

Historically, Lambrusco di Sorbara was a dry, crisp wine that finished its fermentation in the bottle to produce a light effervescence. But large cellars then discovered the Charmat method, which is a much quicker and less labor-intensive process where the second fermentation occurs in steel tanks. It also allowed the flexibility to produce sweet wines.

“The Charmat method generated a huge increase in production, but it also ended up destroying Lambrusco’s reputation,” says Alberto Paltrinieri, who runs his family’s winery, Cantina Paltrinieri. Founded in 1926 in the heart of Sorbara, the firm makes wines exclusively with estate grapes.

“Charmat can give excellent results and control quality, or it can be used to make industrial beverages to suit market trends,” says Paltrinieri. “However, longer fermentation times in the tank that last for three months, as opposed to three days, can yield more complex, aromatic wines.”

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Paltrinieri notes a number of producers have gone back to the traditional practice of carrying out the second fermentation in the bottle with no degorging, leaving a fine sediment at the bottom. This method produces dry, terroir-driven wines with personality.

These evolved methods have led to a renaissance for Lambrusco di Sorbara. However, the wine’s rebirth really began in the vineyard, says Paltrinieri, where “greatly decreasing yields has been fundamental.”

Anselmo Chiarli agrees. He’s the managing director of Chiarli 1860, the oldest winery in the region, and Cleto Chiarli, the family’s winery dedicated solely to Lambrusco made with estate grapes. While lowered yields and optimal vineyard sites have aided the resurgence, Chiarli says that identification of the best clones has further enhanced quality.

“In the 1980s, we began recovering the old clones in our vineyards,” he says. “After massal selection [where grafts are taken from existing old vines to propagate plantings, as opposed to planting new nursery vines], we planted the offspring of the best-performing vines.” These old clones give the wines more depth of flavor, which results in greater authenticity.

The best Lambrusco di Sorbara examples are dry, with enticing scents of violet and crisp red-berry flavors. They’re silky, lightly sparkling and offer racy acidity. These are the most food-friendly Lambruscos, pairing beautifully with the region’s hearty cuisine, like cured meat or tortellini in brodo.

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Medici Ermete 2022 Phermento Lambrusco Rifermentato in Bottiglia Lambrusco di Sorbara (Lambrusco di Sorbara)

A wine of history and pure joy, this watermelon Jolly Rancher-colored sparkling wine bursts out of the glass with aromas of wild strawberry, green herbs and candied rose petals. The bracing palate pops with electric acidity, tart lime, watermelon and saline. A bottle for all occasions. Editor’s Choice. 94 Points — Jeff Porter

$29 Wine 365

Cleto Chiarli 2022 Lambrusco Del Fondatore Lambrusco di Sorbara (Lambrusco di Sorbara)

This zippy sparkler opens with aromas of freshly squeezed cherries that envelop the senses as floral and herbal aromas slowly come into frame providing contrast to the bright fruit notes. Plump mixed berries jump on the palate as the creamy texture and soft bubbles transport the palate to the next level. 93 Points — J.P.

$23 Wine.com

Paltrinieri 2022 Leclisse Lambrusco (Lambrusco di Sorbara)

Delicate aromas of fresh flowers, cherries, McIntosh apple and green herbs open the nose of this elegant sparkling wine. Tart strawberries, cranberries and a hint of vanilla crème give shape to the palate as the gentle perlage acts like silk on the palate. 93 Points— J.P.

$25 Wine.com

Fiorini 2021 Vignadelpadre a Giuseppe Lambrusco di Sorbara (Lambrusco di Sorbara)

This wine opens with aromas of cut strawberries macerated with mint in their own juice alongside wild rose and subtle yeastiness. Sour Bing cherries and fresh thyme lead the way on the palate of this complex and beautiful wine, finishing with zippy acidity and near-perfect bubbles. 94 Points — J.P.

$ Varies Blackwell’s Wine & Spirits

A bottle of Fattoria Moretto NV Monovitigno (Lambrusco Graspaossa di Castelvetro) and Villa di Corlo 2016 Corleto (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro) / Photo by Meg Baggott

Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro

The polar opposite of Lambrusco di Sorbara, wines made with the thick-skinned, late-ripening Lambrusco Grasparossa grape are darkly hued and have more tannic structure than other Lambruscos. And while Lambrusco di Sorbara excels in sandy soils on the plains, Lambrusco Grasparossa needs clay and silt for optimum results.

Grasparossa’s spiritual home is south of Modena, around the town of Castelvetro. Among the earthiest and fullest-bodied of all Lambruscos, Grasparossa di Castelvetro is the flagship wine for this variety.

“Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro is actually more like a red wine, thanks to its body, tannins and structure,” says Fabio Altariva, who runs his family’s Fattoria Moretto winery, in the heart of the Castelvetro hills, along with his brother, Fausto.

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While other Lambrusco varieties grow in the plains, Lambrusco Grasparossa is the only one that does well on the hillsides, Altariva says, at around 650 feet above sea level, where it’s always breezy. Top producers keep yields far below the maximum allowed, and many of these leaders focus on specific vineyard sites for best results.

In the past, Grasparossa bottlings tended to be more rustic, but most producers now seek to make increasingly elegant wines. In part, this is done by careful management of skin maceration to ensure they only extract the right amount of tannins. The best Lambrusco di Grasparossa Castelvetro bottlings are dry, dark and frothy. They offer dark berry and black-skinned fruit flavors, as well as a pleasantly bitter finish.

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Tenuta Pederzana 2021 Lambrusco (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro)

This Lambrusco opens with aromas of spiced-plum compote, fresh black fig and pepper. The bold and dense palate is loaded with black-hued fruit flavors melding seamlessly with savory herbs, spices and earthy notes finishing with a round and soft perlage. 91 Points — J.P.

$20 Bottle Shop

Sebastian Van de Sype 2021 Ancestrale Grasparossa di Castelvetro (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro)

Sebastian Van de Sype is a former aerospace engineer who worked on Formula 1 race cars, but now he is taking his genius to the fields to produce pure, earnest and truthful Lambrusco from 100% Grasparossa. Fresh aromas of plum, blackberry and cassis rise out of the glass with subtle hints of dried leaf and wildflowers in the background, which move to the front as the wine opens. It’s energetic on the palate with a spark of acidity that keeps the palate fresh. Fine bubbles tingle the palate, and the core of fruit continues to develop with each sip. This is an estate to follow. Editor’s Choice. 95 Points — J.P.

$34 Terroirizer

A bottle of Medici Ermete 2016 Lambrusco Concerto (Reggiano) and Cantina di Sorbara NV Dedicato ad Alfredo Molinari (Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce) / Photo by Meg Baggott

Lambrusco Salamino

The most planted of the Lambrusco varieties, Lambrusco Salamino is often blended with other grapes to add its generous color and marked acidity without imparting strong flavors. It’s also commonly used to make off-dry and sweet wines.

Lambrusco Salamino is planted extensively in the province of Modena, especially in the northern part of the province around the Santa Croce hamlet near Carpi, where it originated.

While there’s a denomination devoted to the variety, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce, most producers in the Modena province blend the grape into other Lambrusco bottlings.

Lambrusco Salamino also plays an important role in Lambrusco di Sorbara production. The latter has a flowering anomaly that results in sterile pollen, so growers plant Salamino alongside to act as a pollinator. Up to 40% of Lambrusco Salamino can be used in Lambrusco di Sorbara wines. Lambrusco Salamino is widely cultivated in the Reggio Emilia province, where it’s enjoyed excellent results.

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While the Santa Croce growing zone has fertile soils similar to those of Lambrusco di Sorbara, the plains near the foothills of Reggio Emilia contain more clay and rock.

“Thanks to the soils, Lambrusco Salamino in this area produces richer wines, with more structure and tannins when compared to other areas,” says Alberto Medici, co-owner and part of the fourth generation of his family’s Medici Ermete winery in Reggio Emilia.

Fragrant and fresh, dry wines made with Lambrusco Salamino boast intense red-berry sensations and are well-balanced. They’re somewhere between Lambrusco di Sorbara and Grasparossa bottlings.

“Lambrusco Salamino has vibrant acidity, but still lower acidity than Lambrusco di Sorbara,” says Medici. “And while they are well structured, Lambrusco Salamino wines aren’t as tannic as Grasparossa offerings.”

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Vigneto Saetti 2021 Rosso Viola Lambrusco Salamino (Lambrusco dell’Emilia)

100% Salamino grown organically in the hills north of Modena this wine is the personification of the Saetti family’s dedication to their craft. Aromas of blackberries, mulberries and tamarind share the glass with violets, dried roses and wild herbs. The palate is lush and vibrant at the same time with rich ripe black-hued fruits balanced with crunchy acidity. The wine has a long and refined finish highlighted by the well-crafted perlage. 95 Points — J.P.

$ Varies The Grapevine

Lini 910 NV Labrusca Bianco Lambrusco Salamino (Lambrusco dell’Emilia)

Enticing aromas of Bosc pear, chamomile, singed orange rind and lemon oil waft from the glass. It’s vibrant and crisp on the palate with tart nectarine, pressed yellow flowers, gentian and bitter almond on the finish. Best Buy. 93 Points — J.P.

$18 Lincoln Fine Wines

A bottle of Cleto Chiarli NV Pruno Nero (Lambrusco di Modena) and Rinaldini NV Lambrusco (Reggiano) / Photo by Meg Baggott

Lambrusco di Modena and Lambrusco Reggiano

Besides the three DOC/DOP (Denominazione di Origine Controllata/Protetta) dedicated to Lambrusco (Lambrusco di Sorbara, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro and Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce), the small province of Modena also makes Lambrusco di Modena.
Part of the larger Modena denomination that covers the entire province, this designation is more flexible than the three flagship denominations. Lambrusco di Modena can be made with a blend of numerous Lambrusco varieties, and the maximum permitted grape yields are higher.

Bordering with the Modena province, the province of Reggio Emilia also has a long Lambrusco tradition. Reggio Emilia doesn’t have any Lambrusco-only appellations, so Lambrusco plantings are destined to produce Lambrusco Reggiano, which falls under the larger Reggiano umbrella DOP. The appellation covers the entire province, and wines can be made from a blend of Lambrusco varieties.

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When compared to Lambrusco di Modena, maximum grape yields are lower. Even though more Lambrusco is planted in the Modena area, production of Reggiano Lambrusco is larger than Lambrusco di Modena. That’s because most Lambrusco plantings in the Modena province end up in the more celebrated Lambrusco-specific denominations.

Given the large growing areas and more flexible grape blends, wine styles and quality vary tremendously, but there are some very good wines at great price points made under both designations.

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Podere Giardino 2021 Suoli Cataldi Sparkling (Lambrusco Reggiano)

This is a true classic. Bold and upfront out of the glass with Bing cherry aromas combined with savory herbs, anise and turned earth. The palate pops with more tart fruit notes of Damson plums, pomegranates and sour cherries combined with fresh and dried flowers and a subtle hint of game. It finishes with gentle bubbles and zingy acidity just screaming for a slice of cured meat or aged cheese. Best Buy. 93 Points — J.P.

$20 Somm Cellars

Cleto Chiarli NV Centenario Lambrusco (Lambrusco di Modena)

Exotic spices, dried violets and sweet plum aromas dominate on this juicy and fresh Lambrusco. The lush palate is driven by notes of blackberry, fig and cherry jam all interwined with sweet and savory spices finishing with a pop of acidity. 88 Points — J.P.

$20 Plum Market

Medici Ermete NV Phermento Frizzante Secco Lambrusco (Lambrusco di Modena)

Heady aromas of blueberry and wild cherry lead the nose on this delicious, lively wine. On the lightly sparkling palate, hints of botanical herb and white pepper accent raspberry compote, blueberry and lemon zest before a crisp dry finish. 91 Points — Kerin O’Keefe

$ Varies Mount Carmel Wines

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The Best Australian Wines to Drink Right Now

Wine Enthusiast — Wed, 08 May 2024 18:58:10 +0000

Chances are, you know Australia makes wine. But do you know how varied it is, and the leaps the country’s winemaking has taken in just a few short decades?

While the country has a long history of producing vino—its oldest vines date to 1843 and still produce grapes—there is also a wealth of ambitious producers keen on trying new things. This includes reviving nearly forgotten varietals, turning vineyards into wildlife preserves, experimenting with natural and biodynamic wines and figuring out how to evolve in the face of climate change.

“With 65 wine regions spanning a nation with roughly the same land mass as the United States, Australia is one of the wine world’s most diverse and—in this reviewer’s opinion—underrated wine nations,” says Christina Pickard, a Wine Enthusiast writer-at-large who reviews wines from Australia, New Zealand, New York and England.

While the country is best known for its full-bodied Shiraz and dynamic Chardonnay, Australia offers much more, including other cool-climate varietals like Gamay and Grenache. To celebrate the wealth of wine from the region—and to help make buying them easier—we’ve rounded up a lucky 13 of our favorite bottles.

“This list demonstrates the country’s astounding diversity of wine styles, from gorgeously complex Margaret River Chardonnay to perfumed McLaren Vale Grenache and world-class Tasmanian bubbles,” Pickard says. “To add to the fun, they’re wines from a mix of small batch, lo-fi producers, medium ones with larger-than-life reputations and large-scale household names. There is truly an Australian wine to suit every palate.”

Xanadu 2021 Reserve Chardonnay (Margaret River)

A margarita-style Chardonnay if ever there was one, this feels like you’re standing at the edge of the Indian Ocean (less than four miles from where these grapes are grown) on a brisk day, the salty sea air whipping, the sand between your toes, a lemon twist martini in hand. As delicious as it is evocative, it pings in the mouth with a lightly creamy texture and mouthwatering, laser-like, lemon zest acidity that lingers long on the finish, making it impossible to put down. 97 points. Editor’s Choice. — Christina Pickard

$59.99 K&L Wines

Giaconda 2019 Estate Vineyard Shiraz (Beechworth)

From one of the world’s most underrated fine wine regions, Beechworth, this estate enjoys icon status Down Under, selling out in a matter of minutes. Here in the U.S., it’s still a well-kept secret (for now). While the estate is known more for its Chardonnay, this Shiraz bottling is downright gorgeous. With a perfume worthy of slathering all over oneself, it billows notes of macerated blueberry and red berry fruit, a potpourri dish of dried florals and spices, licorice, chocolate and terra-cotta. It’s silky and slinky, soft around the edges like melted chocolate, but lifted by alpine freshness. Supple, sexy and drinking well now, this could continue to evolve until 2030 or so. 97 points. — C.P.

$85.72 Saratoga Wine

Torbreck 2020 RunRig Shiraz-Viognier (Barossa Valley)

Rich, evocative aromas of mulberry, blueberry, coffee bean and hot-cocoa mix lend approachability to what is otherwise a rich, dense wine, packed with flavor, but also with powerful, chalk dust tannins that need serious protein if opening now. Patience will be rewarded, however. Give this a few more years in bottle. 96 points. Cellar Selection. — C.P.

$234.99 Yiannis Wine

Cullen 2021 Kevin John Chardonnay (Margaret River)

Vibrant, concentrated aromas of just-sliced pineapple and lemon bounce from the glass of this premium Margaret River Chardonnay, from one of the region’s most long-standing and progressive producers. There’s a gingery, salted rock undertow. The palate shows creaminess and fruit weight but remains juicy and bright thanks to a beautiful thread of vibrant acidity that ends long and citrusy. Delicious now, this could age until 2033, at least. 96 points. — C.P.

$99 No Limit Fine Wines

Walsh & Sons 2021 Roi Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River)

There’s a lovely fruity lightness to this, in comparison to the density of some Margaret River Cabs, with an elegant perfume of red currant, bay leaf and savory spice. The succulent, silky fruit washes over the tongue first, the fine, spicy tannins creeping in later. A focused, food-friendly drop that’s deliciously drinkable right now. 95 Points. — C.P.

$52.99 Wine.com

Henschke 2008 Hill of Grace Shiraz (Eden Valley)

Because the 2019 vintage was so small, Henschke has offered up a few museum releases of vintages that were similar climactically to ‘19. This is a rare opportunity to taste the evolution of Australia’s most famous single-vineyard wine— and what a sexy one it is. With shades of brick starting at its edges, the heady aromatics of a wine in its second decade of transformation are immediately apparent: spiced macerated cherries and blackberries, mocha, the cracked spines of old books, raw beef and hoisin-glazed mushrooms. It’s silky in the mouth, the tannins still firm and powdery, but softening, curving into the folds of the wine, a spiced meat nuance lingering on the long finish. 99 points. — C.P.

$779.28 Saratoga Wine

Brokenwood 2018 Oakey Creek Semillon (Hunter Valley)

This is aging comparatively quickly but it’s showing beautifully. Both vibrant and fruity, and also honeyed and oily, there’s delicate floral, white spice and waxy citrus and peach notes to start. The palate is wonderfully fresh with a long, bright line of lemon acidity that cuts through the viscosity of the mouthfeel. It’s a uniquely Australian style that should hold up for several more years. 94 points. — C.P.

$36.99 Cellar.com

Ochota Barrels 2022 The Price of Silence Gamay (Adelaide Hills)

Since the untimely death of Taras Ochota, who was one of Australia’s modern winemaker rock stars, his wife, Amber, has taken the reins, and wine quality hasn’t suffered. This small-batch Gamay is oh-so-delicious with enticing plump berry fruit and spice aromas and a spicy, herbal, stony mineral underlay. Piercing acidity and chiseled tannins create linearity and drive. There’s an ease and transparency to this that comes from minimal winemaking, and a drinkability that belies solid winemaking and varietal and site expression. 95 points. Editor’s Choice. — C.P.

$61.99 Astor Wines

Unico Zelo 2021 Esoterico White (South Australia)

This is a vibrant snap, crackle and pop wine, from its electric orange color to its bombastic, musky aromas of ginger, florals, honeycomb, candied citrus and peach. It doesn’t disappoint in the mouth, with well-placed skins-y tannins and tingly, spicy acidity. There’s a botanical garden feel and an orange peel note to end. For those more adventurous drinkers—and for those seeking highly ethical winemakers—this won’t disappoint. 94 points. — C.P.

$24.99 Station Plaza Wine

Moorooduc 2018 Pinot Noir (Mornington Peninsula)

Mornington Peninsula is synonymous with Pinot and Moorooduc is one of the region’s top producers. The color of rose petals and bricks, the ’18 vintage is in a lovely place. It’s aromatic and expressive, with potpourri-like aromas of dried red berries, crushed flower petals and spice that knit seamlessly together. They’re underpinned by earthy, autumnal nuances. The ethereal palate comes with a beautiful tang of acidity. It’s framed by ultra-fine, chiseled tannins, which leave room for the delicate red fruit, floral and spice flavors that linger on the lengthy finish. Drink now—2028. 94 points. Editor’s Choice. — C.P.

$34.99 The Half Moon Bay Wine & Cheese Company

Yangarra 2020 Ovitelli Grenache (McLaren Vale)

From one of Australia’s Grenache masters, this is a concentrated-yet-elegant vintage of biodynamic winemaker Pete Fraser’s “egg” wine. Lucid, lifted cran-cherry red fruit is woven with savory herbs, licorice and dried florals, and flecked with minerals. The palate is a tightrope of elegance and power, with tightly wound, talc-textured tannins. Still in its infancy, it has at least another decade left in it. 95 points. — C.P.

$89.99 Wine House

Grosset 2023 Polish Hill Riesling (Clare Valley)

2023 was a cool, late-ripening vintage in the Clare and the resulting wines are elegant and filigreed—approachable now, but with the structure and complexity to age for decades. Delicate aromas of lemon-lime, peach blossom, beeswax and lavender soap open. Like a soft hold of the hand, they lead gently to a pristine palate that’s dry with high-toned fruit and prickly acidity. Texturally it feels both lightly creamy and chalky all at once. 96 points. Cellar Selection. — C.P.

$59.99 Plum Market

Clover Hill 2016 Méthode Traditionnelle (Tasmania)

Medium gold in hue, it instantly offers likable aromas of lemon, toast, margarita salt and cashew. They lead to a wonderfully fresh, zippy palate with a chalky texture, tingly, lemony acidity, a softly creamy mousse and persistent bubbles to the long finish. It is a class act from a top Tassie bubbles producer, and at a cracking price to boot. 94 points. — C.P.

$45 Buy Aussie Wine

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This New York-Bred Hybrid Grape Packs a Big Personality

Jeff Siegel — Tue, 07 May 2024 18:23:56 +0000

Talk to winemakers and grape growers, and they can be quite persnickety when describing the grapes they work with. More often than not, it’s their irritations with the grapes that draw the most attention—late to ripen, susceptible to disease and so forth.

Except when it comes to Cayuga.

“Cayuga is an uber-useful blender and it’s beloved of both grape growers and winemakers,” says Peter Bell, who was the winemaker at Fox Run Vineyards in New York’s Finger Lakes for 27 years, where he made cases and cases and cases (and cases!) of the winery’s Arctic Fox, a semisweet varietal Cayuga. “Cayuga needs little in the way of winemaker elaboration. I love pouring it for people who gravitate to Pinot Grigio, since it has that broad appeal—but way more personality.”

Cayuga, or Cayuga White as it’s sometimes called, is a white Cornell hybrid developed in upstate New York by university researchers in the 1940s but wasn’t released commercially until a couple of decades later. Its history is long and complicated, dating to the mid19th century, when a table grape called Winchell was identified in Vermont. Winchell was later crossed with a grape called Moore’s Diamond (which was itself a Concord cross) and a couple of crosses later, Cayuga showed up. All told, Cayuga’s forebears include native Vitis labrusca varieties, French-American hybrids and even Vitis vinifera.

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As such, says Bell, who now works as a consulting winemaker in the northeast, Cayuga forms the basis of a great many proprietary whites in the Finger Lakes. Winemakers like it because it offers high yields, as much as 200 gallons per ton (some 10 to 15% more than typical). It ripens early, around mid-September, and can be picked at sugar levels as low as 15 or 16 Brix—an amazingly low number for a wine grape. Best yet, says Bell, that’s the level when Cayuga’s flavors are at their peak.

So why isn’t Cayuga more popular? Its geography limits its appeal, given that New York wines are mostly distributed only in New York (though, Bell says the grape is likely to crop up in other cool climates in North America). For another, it bears the stigma of wine made mostly with grapes that aren’t European—too smelly, too sweet and not “real.”

But that’s hardly the case with Cayuga. “We were having a fairly elaborate dinner at Fox Run a few years ago, and before the event we had to find a wine to match with each of the six courses,” recalls Bell. “One course was a cabbage slaw with a few exotic things in it. My standard recommendation for a salad is no wine, but on a lark, we tried it with Arctic Fox. To this day, that pairing has been one of the most successful ever. At the dinner, we were thrilled to be able to tell this story.”

Quick Facts

Grape: Cold-hardy white that ripens early, with large, thick-skinned and juicy berries
Cross of: Seyval Blanc, a Franco-American hybrid, and Schuyler, a North American hybrid
Where Grown: Primarily New York state and the U.S. Northeast
Wine Styles: White blends, single varietal and sparkling wines, with a range of sweetness levels
Aromas/Flavors: Honeydew melon, lime juice, tropical fruit
Food Pairing: Salads and shellfish
Fun Fact: One of its grandparents is Zinfandel, which was crossed with Ontario, a North American hybrid, to produce Schuyler

This article originally appeared in the May 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine.

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California Dreaming: Top Bottles from the Sunshine State.

Wine Enthusiast — Mon, 06 May 2024 20:53:48 +0000

When it comes to American wines, there’s no place like California. The Golden State produces nearly 90% of wine made in the United States, and it is responsible for putting the country—and the New World—on the map as a serious contender for quality bottlings. Remember the 1976 Judgement of Paris, when two upstart California producers triumphed over renowned Bordeaux and Burgundy at a blind tasting judged by France’s top experts? More than 40 years have passed since that landmark tasting that changed the entire wine industry and California is still just as progressive as ever.

Since the start of the year, Wine Enthusiasts expert tasters have sampled nearly 2,400 bottles from Napa and Sonoma to Lodi, Santa Barbara and beyond. As usual, they’ve been blown away by the quality and diversity of options on the market.

“The state of wine in California is in a rebirth period,” says Writer-at-Large Tonya Pitts, Wine Enthusiast’s Northern California and California AVA reviewer. “There are so many options for the wine drinker to drink and discover. Frankly, it reminds me of 30-plus years ago, when experimentation was happening with small wineries. We see this same cycle happening again—the curiosity of what else can be grown and nurtured in the landscape we call California.”

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As Pitts puts it, the state is still like a metaphor for the broader U.S., “a melting pot of grape varietals, both classic and nouveau,” she says. This includes everything from Napa’s world-famous Cabs, new-to-the-New-World varietals that are well-suited to a changing climate and a revival of vines and grapes that arrived in the state with settlers, in some cases dating back to the Conquistadors.

While these wide-ranging options are wonderful and exciting, it also makes it harder to decide on the bottle at the shop. But that’s where we come in. From traditional Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay to vibrant Pinot Noir and old-vine Zinfandel, these are the best California wines to drink right now.

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Pennyroyal Farm 2022 Hammer Olsen Vineyard Chardonnay (Anderson Valley)

This wine delivers vivacious stone fruit, lemon, white flowers and fresh rosemary along with super-balanced acid, mineral and earth. This is the beginning of a long-lasting relationship. You are going to want climb on board for this one? Hold or drink until 2033. Cellar Selection. 94 Points — Tonya Pitts

$35 Pennyroyal Farm

Grayson 2022 Lot 10 Cabernet Sauvignon (California)

Produced from small lots from around California, this wine offers notes of dried rose petals, potpourri and plums. These flavors give way to watermelon and round out to hot-tamale candy and a dry finish. The wine would pair nicely with braised meats. Best Buy. 92 Points— T.P.

$12 Yianni’s

Obsidian Wine Co. 2021 Volcanic Estate Obsidian Ridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Hills)

This wine is deep purple with aromas of unripe blackberry, blueberry, olallieberry, fresh bay leaf, vanilla scented potpourri. The midpalate is black olive, green olive, rosemary, orange zest, transmitting into ripe black fruit, dried tobacco leaves and salted truffle chocolate. 94 Points — T.P.

$40 Obsidian Wine Co.

Domenica Amato 2021 Estate Grenache (Dry Creek Valley)

Bright cherry and berry aromas erupt from the glass of this wine. Generous citrusy acidity brings the cherry compote, cinnamon and brown-sugar flavors into focus on the palate. This feels like a distinctly California version of Grenache, with generous texture from some whole-cluster inclusion. 93 Points —Tom Capo

$49 Emmitt-Scorsone Winegrowers

EnRoute 2022 Les Pommiers Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)

Vibrant ruby in color, this wine erupts from the glass with aromas of sweet cinnamon, cola and cherry. There is a charming delicacy here, with flavors of dried rose petal, cherry and berry pie filling on a midweight palate. A captivating dance between the snappy tannin structure and the lively acidity of this wine lead to a very pleasurable finish. 93 Points — T.C.

$60 EnRoute

Angels & Cowboys 2023 Rosé (Sonoma County)

The color of this rosé is pale peach, verging on rose gold. Striking aromas of fresh cherry and limeade dominate the nose. The palate shows varied flavors including watermelon, strawberry and lemon-lime in a lively, acidic framework. Best Buy. 90 Points — T.C.

$16 Wine.com

RZN 2022 The Love Letters Issue Nolan Ranch Vineyard Clairette Blanche (Santa Barbara County)

This is one of the more exciting white wines of late, and possibly the best stab at Clairette Blanche yet from the Central Coast. Clean aromas of nectarine, blanched almond and lemon glaze lead into a grippy palate that simmers with acidity, adding pear peel and brisk apple to the mix. Editor’s Choice. 94 Points — Matt Kettmann

$30 RZN Wines

Rhônedonnée 2021 Night Ride Syrah (Edna Valley)

This wine sports an action-packed nose, hefty, savory, dense and ripe at once. Aromas of blackened beef, turned earth, blackberry and purple flower lead from the nose into a palate that sizzles with zippy acidity, carrying blueberry, elderberry, roasted meat and desert herb flavors. 95 Points — M.K.

$60 Rhônedonnée Wines

Tread 2021 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County)

Winemaker Kristin Bryden is proving to be a savant in the Burgundian grape game. This county cuvée is delicious from start to finish. Vibrant, fresh and juicy aromas of strawberry, Bing cherry and earthy chaparral lead from the nose into a grippy, energetic palate of red fruit and brown spices. Editor’s Choice. 95 Points — M.K.

$40 Zaca Mesa

Frog’s Leap 2021 Shale and Stone Chardonnay (Carneros-Napa Valley)

Bright acidity washes flavors of crisp apple, creamy lemon, grapefruit zest and wet stone through the mouth into an impressively long finish. This Chardonnay is as much about freshness and energy as it is purity and restraint. The use of French oak offers a touch of spice and texture for another layer of interest through the finish. 93 Points — Elaine Chukan Brown

$42 Frog’s Leap

Robert Biale 2022 Dickerson Vineyard Zinfandel (St. Helena)

Aromas of Bing cherry are greeted by flavors of mixed citrus, mint and wafts of cedar. It’s a sophisticated, detailed and intriguing wine with fine-grained tannins and a mouthwatering, long finish. Beautifully crafted and nuanced. Drink now or hold for continued aging. Cellar Selection. 96 Points — E.C.

$75 Biale.com

Truchard 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon (Carneros-Napa Valley)

Juicy, flavorful and approachable, this wine is delicious and good value. Dripping with ripe plum, freshly picked berries and just enough cocoa for additional depth, this wine is a smart choice to please everyone at a meal, including the wine aficionado. 92 Points — E.C.

$46 Wine.com

The post California Dreaming: Top Bottles from the Sunshine State. appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

The Best Wineries (and More) to Visit in Maryland Right Now

Meredith Bethune — Mon, 06 May 2024 20:30:35 +0000

It’s Maryland wine’s time to shine. The state’s wine scene is on the rise, carving out its own identity alongside its more well-known neighbor, Virginia.

The industry has blossomed from a dozen wineries at the turn of the century to over 80 today, according to the Maryland Wineries Association, with distinct winemakers crafting bottles that highlight a wide range of varietals. “Maryland wine feels like a kaleidoscope right now,” says Regina McCarthy, general manager of The Vineyards at Dodon in Davidsonville.

That’s partially due to Maryland’s famously diverse terrain, which has earned it the nickname “America in Miniature.” Central Maryland, with its moderate climate and lush rolling hills, has historically been the focal point for vineyards, producing Bordeaux-style red blends alongside global varietals like Albariño and Nebbiolo. It also includes Maryland’s first established AVA, Linganore. But these days, wineries are flourishing all across the state, from the balmy countryside of Southern Maryland to the cooler mountainous regions of Western Maryland and across the Chesapeake Bay on the Eastern Shore.

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Bernie Vogel, a seasoned wine professional based in Maryland, has observed the evolution firsthand over the past 35 years. “Today, we’re seeing Maryland’s ‘second generation’ of producers looking at the ‘Old World’ for regions that have similar climates and geography and doubling down on varietals that are more suited to our terroir,” he says. “The quality of the wines produced has improved significantly.”

A trip that explores Maryland’s wineries could unfold in several different ways. You could stay in an urban center like Baltimore or Annapolis, using it as a base for dining and lodging, then venture out for day trips to rural wineries. You could pick one of Maryland’s four wine regions and go deep visiting several wineries in the area. Of course, you could always take advantage of the state’s compact size and make it your mission to visit one or two wineries in all of the wine regions.

There’s no right or wrong approach. To guide you through this dynamic landscape, we consulted wine experts from across Maryland who are well-versed in the state’s wine and dining trends.

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Central Maryland

Central Maryland’s Piedmont Plateau, just north of Baltimore, is home to some of the state’s oldest and finest wineries, with a long history of being a destination for wine lovers. Stretching from the rolling foothills west of Frederick to the Chesapeake Bay headwaters, the region boasts rich soil and an optimal climate that make it a premier wine-growing region.

Image Courtesy of Old Westminster

Old Westminster Winery

The Baker siblings established this winery, situated 40 miles northwest of Baltimore in Carroll County, with the aim of preserving their family farmland. After two years of research, they planted 7,600 grapevines, including Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Chardonnay and Albariño. Offering tastings by reservation Friday through Sunday, guests can enjoy wine flights, wood-fired pizzas, and other local fare in their cozy farmhouse-style tasting room with scenic views or relax on spacious patios overlooking the vineyard.

Bernie Vogel has spotted th operation’s canned Farmer Fizz and pét-nats in restaurants and wine shops all the way up in Portland, Maine. He thinks their Chardonnay is top-notch. And as co-owner of JeannieBird Baking Company in Westminster, he stocks it in the small wine section of the shop.

“Far and away, Old Westminster Winery has set a new standard for the possibilities of what can be produced in Maryland,” he says. “Winemaker Lisa Hinton produces beautiful whites and red ‘vin de garde,’ as well as carved out a national reputation in the natural wine community.”

Image Courtesy of Black Ankle Vineyards

Black Ankle Vineyards

Since 2008, founders Ed Boyce and Sarah O’Herron have created estate-grown wines in Mt. Airy with the guidance of consulting Bordelais winemaker Lucien Guillemet. Selections include Gruner Veltliner, Chardonnay, Syrah and Bordeaux-style red blends. Open daily, their tasting room, which boasts magnificent views from its partially covered vineyard-facing patio, offers wines by the flight, bottle, carafe and glass, along with prepackaged local fare including cheese and charcuterie.

Guided tastings are $26, and vineyard tours are available on select days by request. Weekends often feature food trucks, spanning from brunch to tacos and barbecue, all paired with live music.

Image Courtesy of Elk Run Vineyard and Winery

Elk Run Vineyard and Winery

Also in Mt. Airy, Elk Run Vineyards, founded in 1979, is nestled in a bucolic pastoral setting framed by dairy farms and fields of wheat and corn. It produces a wide range of grapes from Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon to Gewürztraminer and Petit Verdot. The winery, named after a nearby stream, was Maryland’s first all-vinifera vineyard.

Visitors can enjoy wine flights on the scenic grounds, which are dotted with picnic tables (outside food is welcome) and peppered with the sound of seasonal live music during the warmer months. Tastings of six wines are $20, with free tours on weekends. Local musicians perform on weekends from May to October.

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Image Courtesy of Boordy Vineyards

Boordy Vineyards

This vineyard in Baltimore County, established in 1945, lays claim to the title of Maryland’s oldest winery. Under the Deford family’s guidance since 1980, the winery spans two vineyards across distinct Maryland microclimates. Long Green Vineyard, in the Piedmont Plateau, yields Sauvignon Blanc and light reds, while South Mountain Vineyard, in the Blue Ridge Mountains, produces Cabernet Franc, Merlot and more.

Weekends feature live music, food trucks and picnic seating (guests are also welcome to bring their own food). Guided tastings start at $12 for five wines, with bottle and case purchases available at the on-site wine shop.

Image Courtesy of Linganore Wines

Linganore Winecellars

Established in 1976, Linganore Winecellars, also located in Mt. Airy, offers a diverse range of wines, including classic varietals like Chardonnay, unique sweet blends, fruit wines and an acclaimed Terrapin white blend made of hybrid Melody and Vidal Blanc grapes.

Bar tastings cost $12 and are available daily without reservations. Private tastings and tours of the idyllic property can be booked in advance. Visitors are drawn to the beautiful countryside setting that boasts a convivial atmosphere thanks to live music and food trucks every weekend. Porch, deck table and fire tables, for use all day long, can be reserved in advance.

Image Courtesy of Basignani Winery

Basignani Winery

Located north of Baltimore in Glencoe, Basignani Winery, established in 1986 by Italian immigrant Bertero Basignani, annually produces 6,500 gallons of wine. Selections span from classic Chardonnay and robust Cabernet Sauvignon blends to the popular Elena Rosé, a slightly sweet blend of Chardonnay, Riesling, Vidal and Chambourcin.

During the day, weekend wine tastings are available in the rustic, barrel-filled tasting room by appointment for $10, with walk-ins welcome as space permits. Warm weekend nights feature live music under the covered pavilion, where guests can nosh on brick-oven pizza.

Image Courtesy of Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard

Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard

Located just 40 miles northwest of Washington, D.C., at the base of Sugarloaf Mountain, this vineyard was founded in 2006 by owner Emily Yang and winemaker Manolo Gomez. Hand-picked grapes from the 22-acre estate are transformed into Bordeaux-inspired reds and crisp whites aged in stainless-steel or French oak barrels.

Open daily for walk-ins, the compact tasting room offers tastings and flights, with free tours available by reservation. On warm weekends, visitors, enticed by food trucks and picnic-friendly policies, spill out onto the patio with views of the vineyard.

Where to Stay

Housed in a beautifully renovated 1880s mansion in the Mt. Vernon neighborhood of Baltimore, The Ivy Hotel is Maryland’s only Relais & Châteaux property. It features nine rooms and eight spacious suites, each uniquely decorated, and amenities like a gourmet breakfast and valet parking. Dine in its Robert M. Parker Wine Cellar at Magdalena restaurant, featuring small-production American wines and rare vintages from around the world.

Hotel Revival, also in Mount Vernon, is a boutique hotel brimming with personality and rooms decorated in an attractive mix of Arts and Crafts and contemporary styles. Topside, the rooftop restaurant and bar, features a seafood-heavy menu and panoramic views of Baltimore and the harbor.

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Where to Eat

Maryland wines can be hard to come by at local restaurants due to distribution challenges, but Gunther & Co. in Baltimore’s Canton neighborhood is an exception. General manager and co-owner Nancy Trice strives to create a well-rounded wine list that balances quality and value, for example suggesting patrons pair Black Ankle's Bedlam, a white blend, with the restaurant's homemade tagliatelle featuring spring vegetables.

At The Charleston on Baltimore’s waterfront, chef Cindy Wolf makes modern dishes influenced by French and Low Country traditions while wine director Tony Foreman considers the growing season and tastes of the restaurant’s clientele while curating a list of more than 700 wines.

Western Maryland

The rugged yet promising wine-growing area of Western Maryland is shaped by the erosion of alluvial soil, which is imbued with a deep and fertile richness over thousands of years by the Appalachian Mountains. Despite enduring long winters and short growing seasons, vineyards in this area flourish due to the well-drained slate-based soils and refreshing cool breezes. Several vineyards in the region focus on cultivating cold-hardy grape varieties including Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Vidal Blanc.

Image Courtesy of Jacob Reid Photography

Big Cork Vineyards

Located in Rohrersville and founded in 2011 by Randy Thompson and Dave Collins, Big Cork Vineyards sprawls across 100 acres in the Blue Ridge Mountains. Cultivating 18 grape varieties, they produce over 25 estate wines, including Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc.

Visitors are welcome to explore their collection while sitting at individual tables or kicking back on the sleek white sofas in the mid-century modern tasting room. It’s open Thursday through Monday by appointment. Tastings are $20 per person, and guests can also enjoy selections from an on-site food market that sells cheeses, fresh-baked bread, charcuterie and more.

Image Courtesy of Catoctin Breeze Vineyard

Catoctin Breeze Vineyard

Founded by Polish immigrants Voytek and Alicia Fizyta, Catoctin Breeze Vineyard is led by Winemaker Mike Lentini and produces around 2,500 cases annually. Bottlings range from single-varietal Syrah and Teroldgego to pét-nats and red blends.

The tasting room is open Thursday through Monday with first-come, first-served seating for groups of up to six. The Vigneron's Choice Tasting for $24 includes six wines—make sure to sample the Cabernet Franc. On weekends, enjoy local food trucks and charcuterie sourced from nearby and feel free to bring your own food for a picnic outside.

Where to Stay

Antrim 1844 on a 24-acre estate in Taneytown offers convenient access to wineries in both central and western Maryland and boasts the area's largest wine program. The historic inn, meticulously restored to its 1844 grandeur by owners Richard and Dorothy Mollette, features one of the East Coast's largest wine cellars with over 15,000 bottles. At The Smokehouse, indulge in a unique six-course prix-fixe dinner, enhanced with a curated selection of wines available at an extra charge.

If it’s convenience you’re after, consider Turf Valley Resort, which is spread across 1,000 acres in Ellicott City, a mere 20-minute drive east from Mt. Airy via I-70. In addition to a range of stylish guest rooms and suites, you’ll find tons of amenities like a spa, pools, tennis and pickleball courts and two championship golf courses.

Where to Eat

Bernie Vogel praises The Tasting Room in Frederick for its dynamic wine program. Located in the city’s historic district, the restaurant’s floor-to-ceiling windows offer panoramic views of Market St. Its innovative cuisine that emphasizes fresh, local ingredients has earned it regional acclaim.

For a more relaxed meal, consider Thacher & Rye, where acclaimed chef Bryan Voltaggio's regional Mid-Atlantic cuisine is prepared with seasonal, local ingredients in a refined yet relaxed atmosphere. Think Virginia cured ham with cornbread and chili pepper-cultured butter and smoked short ribs with celery root and green peppercorn jus.

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Southern Maryland

Southern Maryland's wineries embrace the area's farming roots and growing renown as a wine destination. As one of the state's oldest and most historic areas, former tobacco fields have transformed into vineyards, with rustic barns serving as inviting tasting rooms at numerous spots. This shift is also making wine tastings and culinary adventures more easily accessible from nearby cities, with some of these wineries located just over an hour from Baltimore and Washington, D.C.

Image Courtesy of Robin Hill

Robin Hill Farm and Vineyards

Family-owned since 1955, find Robin Hill Farm and Vineyards in Prince George’s County, just 25 minutes from Washington, D.C. With a view of red barns and rolling hills, the farm offers estate-grown wines from six varietals planted across five acres. Producing 1,500 cases yearly, the Watson family ferment, age and bottle wines on-site, occasionally sourcing grapes from other Maryland vineyards. Their renovated tobacco barn-turned-winery and tasting room exude warmth and history, providing a bucolic setting to savor wines like the Pi'Goat Blanc, a sweet rosé made of Chambourcin and Vidal Blanc with notes of strawberries and cherries.

Image Courtesy of Running Hare Vineyards

Running Hare Vineyard

The tasting room at this vineyard in Calvert County, set on 291 acres of former tobacco field, is open Thursday through Sunday, offering live music and a festive atmosphere on weekends. Try their wine flights with four samples, such as oak-aged Chambourcin, or indulge in refreshing wine slushies on sunny days. Grab a seat at one of the patio tables in the adjacent barn-like biergarten, and sip on local brews or signature wines while savoring wood-fired pizzas from Pizza Di Vigna.

Image Courtesy of Port of Leonard Town Winery

Port of Leonardtown Winery

As a cooperative winery, Port of Leonardtown brings together 12 member vineyards across St. Marys, Charles, Calvert and Kent counties. Gather around the curved bar for a glass of rosé at this cozy and unassuming tasting room located in a historic building at the Port of Leonardtown Public Park. On warm weekends, the grounds outside are transformed into a festive lawn-party atmosphere with live music, food trucks and wine slushies.

Image Courtesy of Dodon Vineyard

The Vineyards at Dodon

Polly Pittman and Tom Croghan, the winemaker, lead four generations of family tradition here. Flagship varieties are Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot, with Oronoco, a rich blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot standing out as Pittman’s personal favorite.

Visitors to the vineyard experience the family's hospitality in a space reflecting their tastes—simple yet refined, modern yet pastoral. Tastings and tours are available on weekends by appointment only. The most casual and flexible option is the self-guided flight, which includes pours of four Dodon-series wines. Guests can also order wine cocktails, wines by glass, cheese and charcuterie from a menu during the visit. The whole goal of the place is to encourage visitors to relax.

Where to Stay

Located just steps from downtown Annapolis, 134 Prince offers expansive common areas, lush gardens and lavish guest rooms set inside an 1849 Dutch Colonial. And in the Eastport neighborhood, the Inn at Horn Point offers peaceful nights in modern rooms, with amenities like free parking and E.V. charging. For a rural getaway, Susannah's Watch, a historic manor on the Dixon Family Farm, offers a unique riverside bed-and-breakfast experience in St. Mary’s County.

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Where to Eat

Housed inside a former bungalow home in the Eastport neighborhood, Vin 909, a cozy "winecafe," is renowned for its brick-oven fired pizzas. Also find salads, entrees like skirt steak with a spicy Moroccan sauce and steamed littleneck clams, as well as wines available by the bottle or glass. The ingredients found in their dishes are sourced from local, organic and sustainable providers whenever possible.

Preserve, a casual New American restaurant eatery near Main Street in Annapolis, offers a unique selection of dishes featuring canned, pickled and fermented ingredients. Husband-and-wife team Jeremy and Michelle Hoffman have also recently expanded to Severna Park in Roanoke County with Garten, a natural wine and beer garden showcasing local favorites. “Not only do they have a really fun food program and wine program, but they also have a great retail section of the restaurant where you can go and buy bottles to take home with you,” says McCarthy. “And they've also been very supportive of the local industry.”

Eastern Shore

On the east side of the Chesapeake Bay, the Eastern Shore boasts fertile soil and a mild climate perfect for growing grapes. Explore this region’s refreshing sea breezes and stunning views, paired with the authentic flavors of Maryland through locally-sourced seafood.

Image Courtesy of Blue Elk Vineyard

Blue Elk Vineyard

Blue Elk Vineyard, perched on the shores of the Elk River, has 14 acres of hillside vineyards. Founded in 2020 on the historic grounds of Bohemia Overlook, the winery resides in a meticulously restored horse barn that dates back to the 1930s. The wood-covered tasting room, once horse stables, offers private experiences Thursday through Sunday. Guests can order flights, glasses, bottles and wine and cider cocktails like their signature apple cider mimosa while digging into charcuterie boards and rotating specials like flatbreads and salads.

Image Courtesy of Crow Vineyard and Winery

Crow Vineyard

Crow Vineyard & Winery, located just minutes from historic Chestertown and Chesapeake City, celebrates three generations of farming heritage on its expansive 365-acre estate.Transitioning from beef and grain to grape cultivation in 2010, owners Roy and Judy Crow have produced Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Barbera. With a homey tasting room open daily from 12 to 5 p.m., guests can choose between the spacious Hay Barn or intimate Milk House for a flight and light, local fare.

Where to Stay

Crow Vineyard also invites guests to experience their Farmstay B&B in a newly renovated, energy-efficient 1847 farmhouse. Moving southward, plenty of quality accommodations can be found in St. Michaels, an idyllic Victorian resort town along the Chesapeake Bay. Great options include the nautical-themed Inn at Perry Cabin, plus the chic The Wildset Hotel, which incorporates the town's former 1830s schoolhouse.

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Where to Eat

Inside the Wildest Hotel, Ruse offers a seafood-focused dining experience with an eclectic wine list featuring selections from around the world. "I just want to always offer up new, fun and exciting bottles and grapes that people haven't tried," says Food and Beverage Director Allie Ballin. "It's always kind of my mission to expose people to new stuff."

Just 15 minutes away in the town of Easton, Bluepoint Hospitality Group has transformed the town with cosmopolitan restaurants and shops. Bas Rouge offers Viennese fine dining, and the vast wine list reflects that with its extensive Austrian and German selections in addition to American and French wines. The selection at the Wardroom, Bluepoint's epicurean market, is more of a "full spectrum," says Wine and Beverage Director Natalie Tapken. It offers various wines, including Spanish, Italian, American, German, Austrian, French and Greek selections.

The group also has a winery in the works. With the help of notable Napa-based winemaker Helen Keplinger, they’ve planted grapes at their own winery just outside Eaton and are awaiting their first vintage.

The post The Best Wineries (and More) to Visit in Maryland Right Now appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

Zalto Glassware

Mon, 06 May 2024 19:06:14 +0000

Zalto Glassware

Zalto heralds from a small village in Austria, where the art of glassblowing dates back to the Renaissance era. Since its inception, Zalto has become one of the most revered makers of luxury wine glasses in the world, blending centuries-old Venetian glassmaking techniques and modern aesthetics to produce fine, functional glassware that enhances every aspect of the wine drinking experience.

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Customer reviews

Best Wine Glasses, Hands Down

“These are hands down the best wine glasses on the planet and make the entire wine drinking experience better!” —Steven F., Verified Buyer

The Zalto Difference

Lighter, thinner and exceedingly more elegant—Zalto’s indelible aesthetic has earned the loyalty of Michelin star restaurants, esteemed wineries, sommeliers and everyday wine drinkers. The lip of the glass is so thin that the wine is delivered more directly to the palate. The walls are sheer, and the silhouettes are seamless, allowing the focus to be solely on the wine.

Modern Luxury

While Zalto glasses are decidedly delicate and light, they are surprisingly dishwasher safe and, in fact, dishwasher safer as hand washing causes stress that can lead to breakage. Cloud- and scratch-resistant, their beauty is uncompromised by the rigors of usage and are proven to remain crystal clear after hundreds of dishwasher cycles.

Legacy Craftsmanship

A devotion to time-honored glassblowing techniques is at the heart of Zalto. The fine designs are achieved by masterful skills reminiscent of Renaissance-era Venetian glass artisans. Every Zalto piece is made from select raw materials using complex techniques to produce perfectly balanced glasses without seams and joins that can interfere with the wine experience.

The Human Touch

Each Zalto glass is shaped by highly trained eyes and hands. Using simple tools, precise techniques and instinct, a small team of master glassmakers hand-form every vessel and blow molten glass into molds to craft their exquisite bowls. They’re then put into a slow cooling phase to ensure high elasticity of their delicate design and meticulously inspected before receiving the Zalto logo. Anything less than a masterpiece is melted down and recycled.

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Everything You Need to Plan Mother’s Day Brunch (and Earn Favorite-Child Status)

Wine Enthusiast — Mon, 06 May 2024 17:59:57 +0000

A good kid knows that celebrating Mom isn’t reserved for a Hallmark holiday. But taking time to show your love, appreciation and care on Mother’s Day is a prime excuse to pull out all the stops and make her feel extra special. What better way to do this than with the time-honored tradition of a thoughtfully prepared brunch?

Naturally, a Wine Enthusiast-approved Mother’s Day brunch is centered around outstanding drinks (whether she’s a wine, cocktail or teetotaler mom), top-notch food and the people that come together over them. With that in mind, we’ve corralled some of our favorite recipes, bottles and equipment to help you pull off an event that will earn you favorite-child status (and have your mom bragging for years).

Get to Know: Ruggeri Prosecco

This Mother’s Day, show your appreciation with the perfect gift: Ruggeri Prosecco. Elevate the day with this elegant bubbly, perfectly paired with a spread of fresh fruits, cheeses, smoked salmon, and pastries. With its crisp bubbles and delicate flavors, Ruggeri Prosecco embodies the essence of celebration, making it the ideal gift to honor Mom and create cherished memories together.

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The Drinks

First things first: Consider what your mom enjoys drinking and choose accordingly.

Mimosas are hard to beat, and this recipe—a simple two-to-one ratio of sparkling wine to orange juice—is hard to beat. Any type of sparkling wine will do, but if you can, splurge for Champagne since it’s a special day. Another alternative to this classic brunch cocktail is the Sunshine Sipper, a blush-toned mixture of sparkling rosé, Cocci Americano, lavender bitters and lemon juice.

Other options for before-noon gatherings? The caffeinated carajillo and effervescent spritzes, including last year’s drink of the summer, the Hugo spritz. Low- and no-abv cocktails are also great, sessionable ways to make sure the party keeps going. There’s also something celebratory about a frozen cocktail, especially if the weather is skewing warmer—this frozen Painkiller, amped up with a hearty glug of rum, does the trick quite nicely. And if you’re planning a big celebration, a batched cocktail is the secret weapon of bartenders who’d rather be socializing than breaking a sweat with a shaker. For moms who like a stiff drink, this bourbon and Aperol-spiked Paper Plane recipe is easy to scale up into big batches.

Of course, for the oenophile, an easy-drinking spring wine is perfect for the season. We’ve also got recommendations for other of-the-moment wines, whether your mom is a lover of buttery Chardonnay or high-acidity Chenin Blanc. You could also snag a top red wine bottle and go the sangria route.

Below are some products to equip your drink station.

Wine Enthusiast Brilliance! Shatterproof Tritan Outdoor Stemless Wine Glasses- Set of 6 (Assorted Colors)

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Wine Enthusiast Deluxe 8-Piece Barware Set – Mirror Finish

Luxurious wine and cocktail serving set includes iceless bottle chiller ice bucket, ice scoop, cocktail shaker, jigger, bar strainer, stirrer and tray

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L’Atelier du Vin Bubbles Celebration Champagne Flutes (Set of 2)

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Handblown Moroccan Cone Jug Glass Pitcher – Green

Handblown from recycled beer and wine bottles.
Perfect for serving all types of cold beverages, like batch cocktails, water, iced tea and more.

$37.00 Wine Enthusiast

The Food

The beautiful thing about a meal that’s not quite breakfast, not quite lunch is that the menu is extremely flexible and easy to tailor to your mom.

In the appetizers department, think about foods that will be easy to prepare and snack on while people arrive: mini quiches (yes, the ’80s are calling), charcuterie, a cheese board and deviled eggs are all crowd-pleasing options and offer beautiful opportunities for plating. If you feel comfortable shucking a few dozen bivalves, these margarita-inspired oysters on the half shell will certainly turn heads (and taste buds). And if you're going fancy? No one was ever mad at a caviar-topped sea bream tartare.

Dips are never a bad idea, either. We're into classic pimento cheese, a zippy black bean dip and this visually stunning spinach artichoke dip complete with a bread bowl. Need more dips? We've got you covered, along with wine pairings to go with.

For the main course, breakfast shrimp and grits, a vegetable scramble or a veggie-packed breakfast bowl are all solid options. We're also partial to this elegant plateful of scallops with roasted fennel and brown-buttered pine nuts and this colorful salad of thinly sliced beets and mango. Make-ahead dishes are great ways to ensure that brunch runs smoothly, too, like a coconut milk and lime-spiked sea bream ceviche, which benefits from a 30-minute cure in the fridge, and an elevated porcini mushroom carpaccio with blue cheese and marjoram, which needs to sit for a full hour before it's served.

And don’t forget something sweet, like a Dutch Baby pancake or prosecco-infused plum sorbet. When in doubt, you can't go wrong with red wine brownies or a glazed apple skillet cake.

The icing on the proverbial cake? We’ve rounded up some cook’s tools and serving pieces below to make your recipes shine.

Serve Salad Set and Oak Base

Glass bowl mouth-blown by skilled artisans in Europe. Square base and salad servers made from FSC-certified, sustainability sourced oak.

$150 Wine Enthusiast

Acacia Wood and Marble Lazy Susan 16-Piece Serving Set

Lazy Susan serving board features two removable marble inserts that can be placed in the fridge before guests arrive keeps food chilled when serving. Includes 3 cheese knives, 3 metal serving picks, 3 metal serving spoons, 3 ceramic bowls and 1 ceramic spiral dish.

$179.99 Wine Enthusiast

Fortessa Melamine Rectangular Tray - 18" X 10"

Durable, lightweight melamine for easy, elegant service indoors and outdoors. Available in 2 finishes: wood and bianco marble. Break-resistant and dishwasher safe.

$30 Wine Enthusiast

Fortessa Street Eats Melamine Paper Plates - Set of 6

Restaurant durable melamine is great for indoor and outdoor entertaining. Heat resistant up to 212 degrees Fahrenheit. Break-resistant and dishwasher safe; not for use in microwave.

$30 Wine Enthusiast

All-In-One Acacia Wood Cheese Board and Wine Decanter Serving Set

Twelve-piece set includes 1 cheese board with storage drawer, 1 quartz insert, 1 decanter, 1 spiral aerator, 1 iron decanter stand, 3 ceramic serving bowls, 3 stainless steel cheese knives, 1 corkscrew.

$166.99 Wine Enthusiast

Eco-Friendly Collapsible Linen Food Tents (Set of 2)

Easily pop open and fit over plates to protect food from flies, bug and other critters.

$49 Wine Enthusiast

Setting the Scene

You’ve got the food and drinks down. Now, consider the ambiance.

Perhaps consider a portable fireplace in case it’s a chilly morning? Or a waterproof blanket if you’ll be picnicking on the lawn, plus games for entertainment. Here's everything you need to ensure brunch success this Mother's Day.

Solo Stove Mesa XL Tabletop Firepit

Dual Fuel capacity and Signature 360° Airflow provide fast, easy ignition and smokeless fires.

$99.99 Wine Enthusiast

Insulated 2-Bottle Wine Picnic Cooler Bag

Generously sized cooler holds two bottles of wine, hot/cold foods and picnic accessories. Insulated center compartment for casserole dishes, cheese boards; side pocket fits two standard wine bottles. Front zip storage with pockets for napkins, flatware, plates, and accessories.

$49.99

Wine Print Waterproof Roll-Up Picnic Blanket with Carry Strap

Oversized blanket with filling and waterproof backing offers comfortable seating for picnicking anywhere. Cotton front in royal blue printed with original wine graphic in white; stylish fringed edges.

$29.99 Wine Enthusiast

Reclaimed Wine Barrel Axe Throwing Target Set

Includes axe board with engraved score rings, three throwing axes with protective covers and easel. Easy set up and disassembly for storage and transportation. Handcrafted from poplar wood and authentic wine barrel staves.

$379 Wine Enthusiast

Reclaimed Barrelhead Ring Toss Dart Set

Includes dartboard and six twisted rope rings with leather-wrapped handles.

$249.95 Wine Enthusiast

The Gifts

While science shows that experiences, not things, are the key to happiness, gifting a thoughtful present will be the cherry on top of your Mother’s Day brunch. Think of something that’ll get a lot of mileage because each time she uses it, she’ll be reminded of how wonderful you are. (We’re quite partial to bags and totes, which can often be monogrammed.)

Wine Enthusiast 2-in-1 Waxed Canvas Pickleball Insulated 3-Bottle Wine Bag

Stylish, versatile carryall for Pickleball and wine travel can be used on and off the court. Includes removable insulated 3-bottle wine bottle divider for standard Bordeaux bottles and hard ice pack.

$79 Wine Enthusiast

Wine Enthusiast Crossbody Insulated Puffer Wine Bag

Fully insulated main pocket with zip closer keeps single wine bottle and other beverages cool for hours; accommodates standard 750 mL bottles. Removable, adjustable shoulder strap. Zip front pocket holds keys, cards, cash, cell phones, and other belongings

$39 Wine Enthusiast

Kywie Camel Suede Bottle Chiller

Shearling style bottle chiller keeps pre-chilled wine, water and other beverages cold for up to 4 hours. Handmade in Europe from 100% Textel sheepskin. Light and foldable for at-home and on-the-go use. Accommodates bottles up to 1L; best fit: Champagne, Prosecco, Burgundy and Pinot Noir bottles.

$63.99 Wine Enthusiast

Striped Canvas and Leather 6-Bottle Weekender Wine Bag with Bottom Storage Compartment

Roomy center compartment with removable padded liner securely holds up to six bottles of wine. Features versatile bottom storage with protective metal feet and exterior zip pocket. Two-way top zip closure; roll-top handles with adjustable crossbody straps. Made from durable canvas and Monaco tan leather.

$129.99

The post Everything You Need to Plan Mother’s Day Brunch (and Earn Favorite-Child Status) appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

What to Know About Maryland’s First AVA

Kristen Richard — Mon, 06 May 2024 17:58:37 +0000

“When we started planting grapes here in 1972, everyone thought we were insane,” says Anthony Aellen, president and executive winemaker of Linganore Winecellars.

Aellen and his family were instrumental in forming Maryland’s first American Viticultural Area (AVA). But even before that, Maryland had a long history of grape growing and winemaking.

“The first mention of winemaking in Maryland dates back to 1648, to a Frenchman named Tenis Palee,” writes Regina McCarthy in Maryland Wine: A Full-Bodied History.

Aellen’s family got their winery license in 1976. And then, he says, “in the late ’70s, the federal government, in its infinite wisdom, said that if you were going to put ‘estate bottled’ and a ‘vintage date’ on your label, you needed to be in an approved AVA.” So Aellen got to work, surveying the land, collecting soil samples and choosing the name Linganore, an Algonquian word that, according to Aellen, means “copiously flowing in the springtime.” It took some time, but in 1983, Linganore finally received its AVA designation.

An influx of other growers and producers soon followed.

“My grandfather was a mead maker and Holocaust survivor,” says Rachel Lipman, winemaker and director of operations of Loew Vineyards. “When he came here, and saw other wineries finding success in this region, I think he thought, ‘Well, if they can do it so can I.’” Their winery was established in 1982.

Fast forward to today, and the Linganore AVA is now home to six wineries, all of which are within about a five-mile radius of each other. Along with that growth, there’s also been a shift in planted varieties.

“Maryland used to be more hybrid-focused,” says Janna Howley, executive director of the Maryland Wineries Association. “For a long time Chambourcin and Vidal Blanc were the two workhorse grapes in Maryland. We still see them, but there’s been a rise of Vitis vinifera over the past couple of decades.” Cabernet Franc has become one of Linganore’s most prominent reds, along with one white you may not expect.

“Albariño has become kind of a rock star,” says Howley. Chardonnay, Saperavi, Barbera, Petit Verdot and Pinot Gris are a few other common plantings.

You May Also Like: The Best Albariños to Drink Right Now

The topography of the Linganore, Aellen explains, is basically within a 90-square-mile drainage basin or watershed located on the Piedmont Plateau, which runs from New Jersey to Alabama, separating the Appalachian mountains and coastal plains. Soils are predominantly gravel and loam on shale bedrock, allowing for good drainage; the climate is notably cooler and drier than other coastal AVAs.

While many producers don’t use the AVA on their labels, Sarah O’Herron, coproprietor of Black Ankle Vineyards, notes that “there’s been a big shift in both consumers and producers taking the industry more seriously.”

“The quality has gone up in the last 50 years,” adds Aellen. “And that’s the really nice thing about having other wineries around. They’ll take the same varieties you’ve been working with, and they’ll produce a better product. And you’ll say, ‘Oh wow, I really like that, how do I do that?’ And it just pulls everyone up.”

Quick Facts

Total Size/Acreage: 90 square miles
Total Vine Acreage: 180+ acres
Number of Wineries: 6
Most Planted Red Wine Grape: Cabernet Franc
Most Planted White Wine Grape: Chardonnay and Albariño

This article originally appeared in the May 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine.

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‘Casanova of Cultivars’: Meet Gouais Blanc, the Mother of Beloved Varietals

Christina Pickard — Fri, 03 May 2024 18:32:47 +0000

In 1999, Bill Chambers, a fifth-generation Australian winemaker, was about to rip out the century-old vines of an obscure grape variety called Gouais Blanc on his historic family property in Rutherglen, a wine region about 180 miles northeast of Melbourne. After all, Gouais was considered a “peasant” variety incapable of greatness and the vines had fallen into neglect over the years. Better to grow something worthwhile.

But just before the Gouais vines met their unfortunate fate, a staff member surfing the World Wide Web (this was the ’90s, after all) stumbled upon the research of Carole Meredith, a grape geneticist and viticulture professor at the University of California, Davis, who was studying the grape. The variety, as she and her team uncovered had a far more fascinating lineage than previously believed. The humble Gouais Blanc was, in fact, the “mother” grape for at least 81 different varieties, including Chardonnay and Gamay.

In reading about Meredith’s research, Chambers and his team learned that his vineyard contained one of the only commercial plantings of the grape on the planet. The vineyard team contacted Meredith about their vines and she urged them not to destroy the Gouais Blanc. This series of events helped to usher a revival of the varietal.

An International Effort to Revive Gouais Blanc

That Gouais Blanc’s historical significance was discovered at all is due in large part to international teamwork.

Late 20^th-century grape genetics were rudimentary compared to today. In the early 1990s, there were no DNA markers available in grapes, says Meredith, referring to the genetic “fingerprinting” that’s common today. So, she formed an international consortium with 20 other researchers across 10 countries to develop a database of markers. “We knew they would become an invaluable tool to develop a better understanding of grapevine biology,” she says. The consortium collected data on over 300 grape cultivars—some of which were nearly extinct, like Gouais—in order to learn the grapes’ parent relationships and genetic makeup.

By the late ’90s, the researchers’ collaboration had begun to pay off. They started to see patterns in the varieties’ lineage and were surprised to discover how many grapes shared a common set of parents, in particular Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc.

“We, like most other grape genetics researchers, had never heard of Gouais Blanc and had included it in our study because it was one of several hundred varieties historically associated with northeastern France,” Meredith says.

While believed to have originated in Eastern Europe, Gouais plantings were widespread across northeastern France throughout the Middle Ages. The vines were grown on “the mediocre sites, the better sites being reserved for more noble varieties such as Pinot,” reads the 1999 paper Meredith and five other researchers co-authored. Gouais was “a variety considered so mediocre that it was banned (unsuccessfully) at various times in at least two regions and is no longer planted in France,” the paper stated. Even the name Gouais, which derives from the old French adjective “gou,” is a term of disparagement.

Affectionately nicknamed the “Casanova of Cultivars,” Gouais is the “mother” of Chardonnay and Gamay, most famously, but also to well-known vinifera varieties like Aligoté, Blaufränkisch, Melon de Bourgogne (the grape used for Muscadet), Riesling, Chenin Blanc and Furmint (the variety used in Hungary’s famed Tokaji wines), as well as over 70 more.

Gouais’s undesirability could have been due to the grape’s high-yields, susceptibility to botrytis, high acidity and low sugar content, which often resulted in a low-alcohol wine of neutral character. But for such a downtrodden variety, it sure got around. There are over 50 different aliases for Gouais; it’s known as Weisser Heunisch in Germany and Gwäss, in Switzerland, to name a couple. It once populated almost every corner of Europe, from Portugal to Hungary.

Gouais Blanc Travels to the Southern Hemisphere

Bill and Stephen Chambers – Photography by Sue Davis Photography

At the turn of the 20th century, Gouais escaped Europe’s borders and traveled to Australia. The vines landed in Rutherglen, a region famed for its fortified wines. Winemaker Stephen Chambers, Bill Chambers’s son and the sixth generation of his family to make wine, believes that his vineyard obtained the Gouais vines from Rutherglen Viticultural Station, a research institute that experimented with recently imported varieties for suitability. “As part of the program they would have wanted a commercial quantity planted,” Chambers says.

Once Meredith learned of the Aussie plantings in the late ’90s, she asked Bill Chambers to send sample cuttings to California for DNA fingerprinting, which would further the researchers’ studies on the variety.

Bill Chambers died in December 2023, but, more than 25 years later, the over 120-year-old Gouais Blanc vines are still going strong in Rutherglen. Utilizing mostly original equipment in the 166-year-old winery, Stephen Chambers, who has been at the winemaking helm since 2001, makes both a still and sparkling wine from Gouais. Occasionally, he’ll produce a wine called “The Family,” which blends Gouais with genetically related Riesling and Gewürztraminer.

As the climate in northeast Victoria warms, Gouais, once known for its neutral aromas and high acid, is making more flavorful wines.

When Chambers started working with Gouais in the early 2000s, “it was a very late white which tended to retain its acid and was quite austere as a variety,” he says. “Now it has developed some aromatics and ripens closer to the other white varieties we have in the vineyard, albeit at a lower sugar level; even an occasional acid addition is required.”

A New-World Companion

Mark Björnson next to Gouais Blanc grape vines – Image Courtesy of Björnson Wine

The sole commercial Gouais Blanc producer in wine’s “New World” for over a century, Chambers now finds itself in the company of another Gouais producer, Björnson Vineyard, in the Eola-Amity Hills region of Oregon’s Willamette Valley. In 2019, it became the first American producer to grow the variety.

Björnson Vineyards owner Mark Björnson decided to plant the grape out of curiosity after he read about its history but couldn’t find it in the U.S. “I thought it would be interesting to plant some and produce wine,” he says.

There’s been a learning curve with the grape. Björnson noticed that Gouais ripens later than Pinot Noir and always has a large crop load. Located in a cooler region than Rutherglen, he sees the prominent acidity inherent to Gouais. “It reminds me of a Muscadet,” he says, referring to the Loire wine made from Melon de Bourgogne, one of Gouais’s offspring. “[It has] floral notes on the nose with bright lemon flavor and a long finish. It goes very well with raw oysters.”

The winery sold just 60 cases of its first Gouais, released in 2022, which was fermented in concrete egg then finished in neutral oak. It will soon release 75 cases of the 2023 vintage, which is fermented in stainless steel, sometime this year.

Swiss Champions

José Vouillamoz – Photography vy Edouard Vouillamoz

While Americans and Australians may get to taste singular domestic examples of this ancestral variety, back in Europe the variety remains mostly a museum curiosity.

While a smattering of German producers and one Italian, make minuscule quantities of wine from the variety, almost everywhere except Switzerland has forgotten it. That Gouais still grows in the country—no one knows how much, as it might be a row or block scattered around here or there—is thanks to preservation initiatives like that are targeting the country’s many historic grape varieties. VinEsch that are targeting the country’s many historic grape varieties.

José Vouillamoz—a Swiss botanist, grape geneticist, co-author of the book Wine Grapes and mentee of Carole Meredith—is leading those efforts. He has been instrumental in raising awareness of Gouais, which was once a major varietal player in Switzerland before phylloxera decimated Europe’s vines in the mid-19th century.

In 2009, Vouillamoz, with his winemaker friend Josef-Marie Chanton, organized a “World Summit of Gouais” at a ski resort in the Valais region. In an effort to increase awareness of the variety, they hoped to gather all the known producers of the variety in the world. While half a dozen prominent journalists attended the summit, only five producers were present. Chambers couldn’t make it due to the distance, and only one non-Swiss winery accepted the invitation, the German producer Weingut Georg Breuer. While miniscule in scale, the gathering did reinforce Breuer’s convictions to continue growing Gouais, as well as Chanton’s.

The co-founder of VinEsch with Vouillamoz, Chanton, who is based in Valais, is one of Switzerland’s main Gouais producers. Production size is still tiny (there were just 1,030 bottles produced in the last vintage), but Chanton’s Gouais boasts “nice aromatics and very high acidity,” Vouillamoz says.

The Ancestral Search Continues

Close up of Gouais Blanc Grapes – Photography vy Edouard Vouillamoz

Over two decades after the genetic importance of Gouais was discovered, scientists are still uncovering significant details about the grape’s history.

In 2018, geonomics researcher Anthony Borneman and a team of seven other scientists at the Australian Wine and Research Institute (AWRI) embarked on a search for Gouais’s own parentage. Again, the peasant variety proved full of surprises.

Pinot Noir, it seems, is both parent and partner to Gouais Blanc. “We sequenced the genome of Chardonnay and compared this to the Pinot and Gouais,” Borneman says. “Rather than the usual pattern you would expect for a parent-offspring trio, the data suggested that some inbreeding had occurred in the Chardonnay family tree.”

You May Also Like: Grapes That Wish They Were Pinot Noir

As more discoveries are made about the ancient variety, some grape geneticists herald Gouais as one of the vinifera varieties well-suited to weather the effects of climate change and even to aid in breeding new, hardier varieties.

“Gouais Blanc has been through many different climates since the Middle Ages; it most likely existed even before,” says Vouillamoz. “This makes it a candidate variety to be the best genetically equipped to cope with climate change. It is also important to maintain it for future breeding. Since Pinot and Gouais Blanc once gave birth to Chardonnay, deliberate crossings of Pinot with Gouais Blanc would allow breeding of siblings, and maybe one of them will be even better than Chardonnay.”

The Casanova of Cultivars, it seems, isn’t going anywhere.

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The post ‘Casanova of Cultivars’: Meet Gouais Blanc, the Mother of Beloved Varietals appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

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Everything You Need to Plan Mother’s Day Brunch (and Earn Favorite-Child Status)