It may surprise a few to know that the first American Viticultural Area (AVA) was not in California, or even on the West Coast. In 1980, the 15-square-mile area of Augusta, Missouri, became the first official AVA—8 months before Napa Valley. The honor of becoming the first AVA was awarded to Augusta as much for its unique terroir as its rich grape growing and winemaking history.
Prior to Prohibition, Missouri was the second largest wine-producing state in the United States. Located about 37 miles outside of St. Louis, the town of Mt. Pleasant was established as a small port community in 1936 when German immigrants took advantage of the Missouri River. In the 1840s, however, the town’s name was changed to Augusta. Grape growing and winemaking traditions go back almost as far: Mount Pleasant Estates, established in 1859, is the oldest winery still in operation from this period.
Prohibition hit the Missouri wine industry hard, but it is slowly rebuilding (still), with a focus on quality and innovation. Today, Augusta is home to just five wineries: Augusta Winery, Balducci Vineyards, Montelle Winery and Mount Pleasant Estates (all managed by the Hoffmann Family of Companies), as well as family-owned Noboleis Vineyards.
You May Also Like: The St. Louis Wine Scene is Experimental, Unpretentious and Open-Minded
In this small but mighty region a wide variety of grapes is planted, from familiar favorites such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, to hybrids, including Vidal Blanc and Seyval Blanc and grape varieties native to the area. Augusta and surrounding AVAs particularly champion the Norton grape (the official state grape of Missouri), along with other native and hybrid varieties, and wineries are making dry and sweet table wines from them. Colin Pennington, director of winemaking for the Hoffmann Family of Companies, has his sights set on Vidal Blanc as the AVA’s signature grape. “Vidal Blanc really shines in the Augusta AVA,” Pennington says. “The climate leads to wines with intense stone fruit while the soil adds a level of minerality.”
That “minerality,” Pennington comments, is due to the unique soils found throughout the AVA. Augusta is bordered by ridges on the north and west and the Missouri River to the south; flooding from the Missouri created loamy, silty soils throughout the area. These boundaries also help moderate temperatures, creating an ideal microclimate for wine grapes.
While Pennington enjoys working with hybrid grapes, he notes that the naturally high acidity makes these grapes more challenging to work with. “There are many ways I try to combat this,” Pennington says. “Picking time is crucial, and the importance of blending can’t be overstated.”
Noboleis Vineyards also focuses on native and hybrid grapes, with estate plantings of Norton, Chambourcin, Vignoles and Traminette. “Missouri’s climate and nutrient-rich soil allow us to produce varieties that are native to this area and have their own unique profiles,” notes Tricia Newbold, marketing director for Noboleis.
Once a booming port town, Augusta is seeing a viticultural renaissance. Companies are investing in winemaking in the area, while advances in hybrid grape breeding and a deeper understanding of native grapes are increasing the quality of those wines.
Quick Facts
- Date AVA established: June 20, 1980
- Total size: 15 square miles
- Planted acreage: 160
- Most planted grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chambourcin, Seyval Blanc, Vidal Blanc and Norton
- Climate: Continental with some humidity
- Number of wineries: Five
print cta
Published: December 18, 2023
