It is an observable fact that many regions traditionally heralded for their abundant apple orchards are now garnering applause in the world of viticulture. A delightful testament to the adaptability of nature, Tasmania (aka “The Apple Isle”), Asturias (Spain) and, most recently, North Carolina’s emergent AVA, Crest of the Blue Ridge Henderson County, have all showcased the ability of vineyards to flourish where apple trees once held dominion.
Carved in the southwest of North Carolina, Crest of the Blue Ridge perches on the South Carolina border, halfway between the cities of Greenville and Asheville. Notably, the 215 square-mile expanse is bisected by the Eastern Continental Divide. This effectively cleaves the region into two contrasting halves—the Blue Ridge Escarpment and the Blue Ridge Plateau—permitting excess water runoff to amble its way into the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico respectively.
For most of the region’s wineries, the escarpment offers a desirable growing environment with less fertile soils, superior drainage and a diverse range of slopes, creating unique microclimates.
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“Our site selection for our vineyard was very deliberate,” explains Heath Little of Stone Ashe Vineyards. “We’re blessed with stony Ashe soils, which has excellent drainage. Coupled with the steep slopes (which range from 9°–35°), we avoid the herbaceousness that can happen when the vine grows too vigorously. The vine can focus its energy on the grapes.”
A striking geographical feature of the region is its ascent in altitude, beginning at 1,395 feet and soaring to an impressive 4,396 feet. “Most of our vineyards sit around 2,300 feet,” explains Mark Williams, the executive director of the local Agribusiness nonprofit and the original petitioner for the AVA. “Cool mountain air rolls down the Blue Ridge slopes at night, providing a desirable diurnal range. The nightly respite for the grapes helps maintain freshness in the wine.”
The region draws a lot of its inspiration from France, Germany and Austria with a broad mix of grapes including Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner, Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling and Merlot. It also incorporates lesser-known vinifera varieties and hybrids. “We’ve had great success with Austrian Blaufränkisch, Regent, which is a German hybrid, and even Saperavi, the teinturier variety from Georgia,” explains Ken Parker of Souther Williams Vineyard.
Parker is proud of the focus of the local vintners. “Our wineries are not producing wines just to attract the tourist dollar; they’re learning and adapting and trying to produce the best quality wines possible,” he says.
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“We’re making viticultural choices based on the soil, slope, wind and sunlight for each site,” adds Little. “We’re inspired by the French, so we’ve employed high density planting with narrow rows and cover crops. We’ve even got the small tractors required for the narrow rows.”
In Crest of the Blue Ridge, there’s a fascinating marriage of geographical opportunity and viticultural ambition, molding a wine region that is rapidly establishing its own unique imprint on the wine world.
Quick Facts
- Total Size: 215 square miles
- Planted Acreage: 125 acres in production, 25+ acres being established
- Most Planted Grapes: Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner, Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling, Merlot, Vidal Blanc
- Climate: Warm Continental
- Number of Wineries: Seven, with one slated for opening in 2024
This article originally appeared in the November 2023 issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!
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Last Updated: October 19, 2023